We were up again early this morning (poor Cass – she thought she would be getting lots of sleep ins – but it is simply impossible in a campsite – something to do with no brick walls and an A.D.D. father!) and managed to book two exceptionally overpriced canoes for four hours – having said that, the canoe option was the cheapest thing available! For once it was a coldish day here in the Northern Territory (only 27 degrees!) and on the water, and in the Katherine Gorge, with the wind whistling down it, it felt like 10 degrees! (there I thought Kim was enjoying the fresh air and the exercise).
Cass and I started out in the double canoe (me in front and her behind) and that was a hopeless circus – we could do circles pretty well – I was able to land about a litre of water in her lap each time I tried to row, she managed to bash me over the head once or twice as she went to dig her paddle in. Eventually Rich took pity on us, and Cass swapped into the single canoe and Rich took me on – I will say that by the end of the four hours we did have SOMETHING that resembled synchronicity, but surely rowing together in a double canoe has to be the biggest test of a harmonious relationship that I can think of – most of the time I was told to simply ‘sit still and don’t paddle’ (I even gave Kim the camera and asked her to take pictures in an effort to distract her from trying to paddle – one would think she would relish the idea of me doing all the work?) – that ensured the least amount of trouble for everyone! J Rich is an absolute star – at one stage he had me in the front (sitting still), a rod and line in the water for any stray barramundi, and Cassie tied onto the back so she could sightsee instead of row (Cassie was lagging and it was the only way to make sure she stayed up to pace) – and still he powered on! (No I don’t feel bad about that because it is good to wear him out – if he doesn’t wear himself out in this way, then he will be running, walking or exploring at the other end of the day … I am grateful for his strength, but don’t feel bad when I am the beneficiary of it!)
The gorge was stunning I must say – tall red and gray rock cliffs on either side, fast flowing, deep green water, the occasional freshie crocodile (the safe kind), numerous birds and my personal highlight, a small olive python (which I spotted! And my prize was not to have to row any further! J). (The small python was wedged into a crack in the rocks just clear of the water, so we rowed right up to him and checked him from about a meter away – actually I was close enough to touch him – funny how the French tourist we eagerly called over to share out excitement seemed far more reluctant to get close). We (Rich) rowed up the first gorge and we then disembarked out of our canoes (hilarious really how the word ‘disembarked’ sounds so controlled and professional – believe me it was far from that – more like flailing around in the water, tipping over, paddle flying, sunnies falling, life jacket coming up over your eyes – in general a bit of a scramble!) walked a short way over some rocks, and then ‘re-embarked’ (repeat performance of the ‘disembark’) into another set of canoes for the second gorge. Sadly we had spent so much time going in circles in the first gorge that we didn’t have much time in the second, but it was as lovely and we were just sad we had to turn for home too soon.
Back to the campsite after that, quick pack up, back to Katherine for some supplies and on to a place called Mataranka about 100 km south. Thanks to the Fingers, friends who were here this time last year, we had the exact caravan park to go to, along with a few other tips which led us immediately after set up to the MOST BEAUTIFUL hot springs (Bitter Springs) where the pools are so deep one can’t stand, and the water is so warm and clear it feels like a tropical paradise. Rich and Cass had goggles and were able to see small fish and a few turtles, one of which Cass very bravely pursued and caught! (I saw Cass flailing around in the shallows under a mat of weed and thought she was stuck, so was on my way to bravely rescue her when she pops out to the surface with a small turtle in her hand). She did say she was a bit worried about whether it would have length of neck to turn around and bite her, but it didn’t and just stared back at us with a slightly bemused expression as we examined it from head to toe and then swam rapidly off when released, with Rich and Cass in hot pursuit to see where it went! J It was a lovely end to a wonderful day!
Highlights of the day:
Kim: Spotting the olive python, who was literally nestled into the vertical rock wall in a vertical manner – see photo – no idea how he held himself there!
Cass: Catching the turtle – sorry, no photo, we were in the water and the camera is not water proof
Rich: Everything to do with the hotsprings other than being whacked over the head by an old lady swimming upstream on her back!
Scary sights of the day: Grey nomads of both sexes seen from underwater – the downside of having a mask and snorkel in clear water.
Funny sight of the day: Cass having carefully made a salad plate for dinner upending it on the floor of the caravan – ah well, five second rule and all was good!
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