Well once again today we had another truly glorious experience – we were up early, and in the car to El Questro – about 80 kms from Kununarra. This is a beautiful place in the East Kimberlies that is owned by a couple (she from Melbourne and he from the UK) who moved there in the 1990’s and lived in a tent for few years while they developed the property which essentially is a ranch, but during this time they have turned their 75 000 hectares into a tourist destination of note – you can only get there by four wheel drive, (only four wheel drive caravans too – which is why we didn’t actually stay there) on a fairly rough road, but it is so worth it. This is where parts of the movie Australia were filmed and with all the natural beauty on display it is not at all surprising to see why.
By 9 am we were basking in some beautiful hot springs called Zebedee Springs – the water of which literally comes out of the wall of a gorge at about 32 degrees Celsius. It comes down into a whole series of pools, in which you can bask – and we did, for a good 45 minutes. (Rich spent some time with mask and snorkel checking out strange fish).
From there we headed to El Questro Gorge, another absolutely stunning place so full of natural beauty it is almost overwhelming. You walk two kilometres up into this deep chasm of a gorge and it is an absolute tropical rainforest wonderland. It is a fascinating thing the transformation that takes place over a few hundred meters. You go from the very dusty road with scrub vegetation into a dry and dusty car park where you actively look for shade in which to park. As your walk progresses up into a gorge, often with red walls rising on either side to a height of around 65 meters, things start to cool down and become magical. A little river potters between boulders, pooling at various stages and in various depths, beckoning you in to cool off. The vegetation dramatically changes to that of a rain forest with beautiful palms and ferns taking over from the dust and scrub. Water tumbles over rocks and pebbles, a cool breeze blows down the gorge and really, it couldn’t be nicer walking – the only complaint is that the path is usually in the river bed – i.e. boulder hopping all the way, so you have to concentrate on your feet and have to physically stop every now and then to take in the view – you can’t … okay I can’t walk and look at the same time! J At the end of the El Questro gorge was a lovely swimming hole – as I waded into it, I noticed a school of about fifteen fish, all around the size of a person’s hand, gathered around me, making very expectant eye contact – they were close enough to touch! It dawned on me, they were waiting to be fed! Obviously this is what happens with the various tourists who come and they now expect it as their due – which we duly did and they literally took bits of bread from our hands!! As is expected, Rich tried to catch them, but I think the reason they are still there is because they know all about the ways of tourists!
From there it was on to the official El Questro station which consists of the caravan park, amenities, restaurant, shop, a resident artist (who was born in Warragul), a helipad and airport, office etc. We had a lovely picnic lunch under the trees and eventually headed off for some more exploring in this vast place. The afternoon consisted of lots of river crossings, four wheel driving over rocks and up steep hills and through river crossings halfway up the doors, visiting lookouts, camp spots, enduring endless bone shaking corrugations on dirt roads and clouds and clouds of dust – but great fun was had by all.
Once again, we are in awe of our maker’s creativity, His ability to make such incredible contrasting beauty and His graciousness at allowing us to see it all!
Highlights of the day:
Rich:
- Seeing a snake on the road, and skidding to halt amidst clouds of dust – and during the time it took the dust to settle enough to see, the snake had made a quick exit so there was no opportunity to pick it up!
- El Questro in general
Kim:
- Floating on my back in the warm springs looking up at the green palms against the blue sky, framed by the orange cliffs of the gorge (with Rich attacking from beneath).
- Watching Richard loving four wheel driving!
Wake up call of the day:
Driving past a smashed-up ute, next to which lay a dead scrub bull!
Surprise of the day:
A redhead female at the top – wow! Whaddaya think Pete Smith?! 
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